Offwidth climbing. Offwidth Cracks Offwidth cracks are among the hardest to master. Learn to climb offwidth in Indian Creek and Moab, Utah. The Art of Offwidth Clinics. They are finger sized Offwidth Master. What is it anyway? Trad climbing generally breaks down into three main groups. ) Aug 2, 2013 · Over my many years climbing wide cracks in Vedauwoo (pronounced “vee-duh-voo”), Wyoming, I have observed phenomena unlike anywhere else. ” Published Jan 10, 2025 The Editors High Five Century Crack, located in the vast expanse of Canyonlands, Utah, is heralded as the world's hardest off-width climb. 13. We believe that solid facilitation, coupled with strong, discipline-specific technical skills makes for quality outcomes. Offwidth Rock Climbing based in Lonehill, Sandton values excellent service through best practice. Still, some aficionados will travel for days when they hear of the latest offwidth test piece. She has been teaching offwidth clinics since 2015. Dec 13, 2024 · Free climbing El Cap requires a lot of support. Nov 11, 2011 · Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker's new climb, Century Crack, is the hardest offwidth in the world. Make sure to climb with someone who’s competent with the rope skills, the hauling, the wide climbing, and the basic logistics of big walling, but who also wants your success and shares your dream of flowing over the Big Stone. In rock climbing, a crack climb is a type of climbing route that follows a system of crack (s) or fissure (s) which the climber uses to ascend the route. 7 and 8 have Apr 13, 2022 · Mari Salvesen is the second person to flash Belly Full of Bad Berries (5. First free ascended by the "Wide Boyz" – Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker – this notorious route has been the subject of both admiration and controversy. Jun 18, 2020 · Stu Bradbury shares his stories from global offwidth pilgrimages "Vertical wide cracks showcase geology's works of art, drawing the eye ever upwards, creating inspiration and fuelling The Art of Offwidth Clinics. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. With Brad Jackson, Pamela Pack, Tom Randall, Bob Scarpelli. Yosemite is the climbing destination for people from all over the world, and those people are the ones you’ll be climbing behind or awkwardly trying to pass on the long routes. What is an offwidth? An offwidth is any crack larger than your fist, yet smaller than the width that allows you to insert your whole body inside Feb 10, 2025 · Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. These 2 and 3-day guided climbing trips will take your climbing skills to the next level. A beautiful waltz with the rock. 5. Nov 21, 2011 · Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker spent two months in Wyoming and Utah this fall climbing the United States's hardest offwidths—awkwardly sized, unpopular cracks that are too wide to fist jam but Tom Randall and Mary Eden (aka Tradprincess), take competition climber Sierra Blair-Coyle Offwidth climbing for the first time. Stretch out calves on rocks and other terrain. As an experienced climber and outdoor enthusiast, I have spent countless hours honing my skills and testing various equipment to find the best gear for offwidth climbing. Leavittation involves hand-fist stacks and leg- and calf-locks. 8 (rated to 5kN; protects from 7. Mar 22, 2023 · Description: Far Away follows Jenny Fischer and Kat Whipple, two female climbers as they employ their niche offwidth climbing skill set to establish a first ascent in a remote mountain range in China. Apr 16, 2008 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 12c) on the Sunshine Face at Suicide Rock, California. 21 Camalot was an April Fool’s gag, on that same day Black Diamond quietly added two big, new offwidth cams to their C4 line: the No. It’s become a must-climb classic at the grade of 5. Apr 15, 2013 · In Climbing's May issue, we ran Part 1 of an offwidth training program devised by Pamela Pack. Twist Pamela has created a series of specialty Art of Offwidth climbing clinics, which she personally guides in Indian Creek, UT. These are some of the widest. Plyos are the most intense of the workout components and present the highest risk for over-training and injury, so start slowly and focus on proper form Dec 6, 2024 · Babsi Zangerl blasted up the 3,300-foot Free Rider (5. Over six episodes (shown each Tuesday on UKClimbing for the next six weeks) the guys cover all widths of crack: Fingers, Hands, Fists and Offwidths as well as looking at the skills May 14, 2013 · The pair swapped leads, with each climbing a crux pitch (Kingsbury on pitch one, Pack on pitch three). Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics Jan 10, 2018 · Leavitt and Yaniro would do laps on these cracks, using duct tape on their hands and tennis shoes on their feet. Pete Whittaker from the famous @WideBoyz showed me how to climb Off Widths! I hope you like the video, let me know what you think in the comments?Subscribe Sep 26, 2024 · Watch the video of Tom Randall climbing his hardest offwidth crack to date, the 60m bridge crack Autobahn in Berlin, Germany. Mar 14, 2020 · In this video you'll learn how world-class offwidth climber, Pamela Shanti-Pack, tapes her hands for climbing wide cracks. 75 and . I have wandered into paint-ball battles that could be mistaken for military takeovers, approached routes surrounded by not-so-distant gunfire, witnessed a tree get hit by lightning and burst into flame while mid-route, and observed an SUV stop on the road Sep 8, 2016 · Invert offwidth climbing is a progression of Leavittation, a climbing technique developed by Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro and used to tackle the four- to six-inch-wide, 20-foot-long roof crack Paisano Overhang (5. Smear: Smearing is a technique used on smooth or sloping surfaces where the climber presses the sole of their climbing shoe against the wall for traction. May 22, 2022 · An offwidth for the ages and delicate face and slab climbing are the highlights of this area. 14d/15a, and Access Fund is donating $10,000 to replace bolts at your favorite crag. Big Oct 18, 2023 · Plus: Anak Verhoeven sends yet another 5. In the easier grades, pure offwidth technique isn't as Sep 12, 2019 · Climbing, crack climbing, offwidth climbing, pete takeda, trad climbing, wideboys lhaas Aug 2, 2013 · Over my many years climbing wide cracks in Vedauwoo (pronounced “vee-duh-voo”), Wyoming, I have observed phenomena unlike anywhere else. Wide Boyz: Directed by Chris Alstrin, Paul Diffley. The route starts with a splitter finger crack (5. Kathy Karlo on Offwidth Climbing and Internet Bullying (x-post from /r/climbing) OTHER Jun 23, 2017 · Difficile de ne pas être surpris les premières fois où nous sommes confrontés à un offwidth. The hold needn’t be a bucket or otherwise incut — it can be vertical, horizontal, or slanted, if there’s a feature nearby for the toe cam. Here are stabilization exercises to practice throughout the program. Watch the impressive ascent here. A top down view of Scotty-Burke Offwidth (heinous 5. Over six episodes (shown each Tuesday on UKClimbing for the next six weeks) the guys cover all widths of crack: Fingers, Hands, Fists and Offwidths as well as looking at the skills Apr 15, 2013 · In Climbing's May issue, we ran Part 1 of an offwidth training program devised by Pamela Pack. 10a), New Diversions Cliff. I have wandered into paint-ball battles that could be mistaken for military takeovers, approached routes surrounded by not-so-distant gunfire, witnessed a tree get hit by lightning and burst into flame while mid-route, and observed an SUV stop on the road British rock climber Tom Randall has made the first ascent of Autobahn, a 60m offwidth bridge crack in Berlin, Germany. Oct 14, 2021 · Offwidth. Aug 8, 2018 · Crack shoes are designed to maximize crack climbing and edging effectiveness, while minimizing discomfort. Jan 10, 2025 · Weekend Whipper: Layback an Offwidth? You Might Just Whip “Most choose to layback this beast, which makes the climbing easier, but adds an interesting challenge when placing gear. Crack Climbing shoes generally come in two designs-in a slipper style, or with laces. 10a. Start early (alpine start!) to avoid crowds. 6–12. This past summer, I have been training in my Moab garage for Century Crack (5. So when two proper British lads, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, crossed the pond to eat up the gnarliest wide cracks in the West -- including the Jun 15, 2012 · The basic heel-toe is your building block. Here are plyo exercises to complement the program. It is an awkward space and requires movements that can be physically awkward or uncomfortable. ” Watch Earle’s battle for the first ascent of the grueling crack at an area called Hondo near Joshua Tree, California. Jun 28, 2013 · The Elevation Outdoors guide to crack climbing in Colorado from Willy's Hand Jive to Country Club Crack, the Colorado Crack Climbing Guide has it all. Jul 1, 2008 · 7/01/08 - Pamela Pack Varco has onsighted Lucille (5. Oct 14, 2009 · Offwidth climbing requires a different style of gear than most traditional climbing: stiff shoes, tough pants, long sleeves, and layers of tape in odd places. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and more. ” This was one of the first climbs ever to be given the grade of 5. First Ascensionist. Heel now seated, cam your toe in opposition — placing it under a small roof or lip, or smearing against the wall — and Apr 14, 2020 · Climbing Book Club We recently launched a new Facebook group to discuss climbing literature: Climbing Book Club. Dec 12, 2023 · The crack starts with 100 horizontal feet of ropeless crack bouldering, transitions into a final 45 feet of traditional gear-protected climbing, and culminates in a 5. Jun 15, 2012 · Crackmaster Pamela Shanti Pack has made the first ascent of Vedauwoo, Wyoming's hardest offwidth yet: The Forever War (5. Salvesen reports about her ascent which has been described as 'a massively significant ascent in offwidth climbing, crack climbing and women's trad climbing. American offwidth climbing has spawned a counter-culture of rough and tumble characters who aren't afraid to bleed their way up a route. The width of the crack dictates the techniques needed, and crack-climbs are further differentiated by the body parts that can be 'jammed' into them, such as finger cracks (the narrowest), hand Jan 17, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sep 19, 2017 · Offwidth climbing This is why people travel far and wide to come to Vedauwoo: the wide cracks. 9–9. Since the cracks are unique in size, the climbing can seem awkward. Statically stretch major muscle groups (legs, arms, back, chest, etc. Here are 5 tips from one of the best in the game to keep Sep 5, 2023 · Ever wonder what it’s like to climb with an offwidth legend? We spent a day romping around Vedauwoo’s storied wide cracks and chatting with Pamela Shanti Pack. Every four weeks or so, my partner and I have been climbing an offwidth outside to stay sharp. Jun 15, 2015 · Here are 5 tips from one of the best in the off-width game to keep you coming back for the wide stuff - - - Check out the tips and tricks below from La Sportiva climbing ambassador Pamela Shanti Pack and watch our video Finding Wide for more offwidth goodness from Pam! Your first pitch of offwidth in nearly always a memorable experience. Jul 31, 2013 · Shimmying up offwidths is grueling, physical punishment that can tax your entire body, and like the routes themselves, training is a completely different beast from running laps in the gym. Seven years later, he made the third ascent. 2 camalots. The thinner three of the four cracks were easily climbable, but the offwidth presented a challenge. Aug 5, 2013 · This borderline-shameful experience encouraged me to hone my offwidth methods, because here—as in all climbing— technique and style matter. 65 inches). Join us in Moab and Indian Creek, Utah for our specialty Art of Offwidth Climbing Clinics Sep 25, 2024 · Urban Crack Climbing 2. Often painful and hard work, their murky delights have been left behind by modern climbing. Nov 1, 2023 · Offwidth climbing is a challenging and unique form of rock climbing that requires specialized gear to ensure safety and success. This course, in the offwidth capital of the world, will teach you basic and advanced offwidth climbing techniques that will have you cruising wide cracks in style. Yosemite Free Climbs guidebook author Don Reid said Chingando is “part of the hardman offwidth training circuit. But Tom Randall thinks it's time you investigated this almost-forgotten art. 4 on up, the Nos. 13a), becoming the first person to flash El Capitan. Pam's technique is a little different and based on many years of refining Jun 30, 2022 · Canadian crack climbing wizard JP “Peewee” Ouellet shares how to use rubber, tape, and glue to climb off-size splitters without destroying your skin. Crack Climbing: The Definitive Guide is the first book we’re covering, and we’re offering members 25% off their copy. In rock climbing terms: “Offwidth climbing is the most difficult to master. Science has yet to find a cure for this malady. 1. Jun 14, 2024 · Here are 10 lessons I learned for a sweet Yosemite vacation: Jenn Flemming reaches for a comfortingly large knob on New Diversions (5. 10 Moccasym -arguably one of the most popular climbing shoes around. 14b), a monster offwidth roof crack in the White Rim. The Art of Offwidth Climbing Clinic with Pamela Shanti Pack We are so pleased to announce that we will be offering “The Art of Offwidth Climbing” clinic with professional climber Pamela Shanti-Pack and her team including Gisely Ferraz, Marcus Garcia, David Katzenmeyer, and others! Apr 4, 2020 · The ultimate buying guide to big gear is here! In this review, these burly pieces of protection chicken wing, arm bar and leviathan their way to the award podium. There's nothing new in hand-jam stacks, you will say, but a builder who uses standard materials can still come up with a unique design! Even an easy offwidth is hard! 'Off-width' is a particular style of rock climbing that involves cracks that are wider than the typical hand or fist size yet too narrow for a climber to fit his or her entire body into. There are multiple options for stabilization/core training. The only way we could actually hang in there was to put one hand jam on top of another, so we Mar 27, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. But when an expandable tube chock hit the market, offwidth climbers really had their trademark. Long sections of offwidth climbing can be incredibly difficult and strenuous, and progress is often made millimeters at a time. While it turns out that the chimney-protecting No. Apr 18, 2016 · The mental and physical demands of offwidth climbing are grueling, and part of that is due to the intimidation and difficulty of protecting them. He makes his home in Sheffield, England. 13b offwidth. This video is part one of Earle’s May 14, 2013 · The pair swapped leads, with each climbing a crux pitch (Kingsbury on pitch one, Pack on pitch three). Do not overstretch—the more flexible a joint is, the harder it is to stabilize it; thus, more strength is needed. Despite my passion for offwidths, I was a bit of a specialist, seeking out the hard “invert” style of climbing wide cracks through roofs, and I had never climbed a vertical desert offwidth. Aug 15, 2015 · Off width climbing is a lot of grunting, struggling, and trying to wedge your various body parts any where you can. Oct 29, 2018 · Danny Parker climbed his first offwidth ever around the same time the Wide Boyz climbed Century Crack. They learn about taping, diffe May 22, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jul 13, 2023 · In 1965, the great Chuck Pratt made the first ascent of Chingando, a 50-metre test-piece offwidth in Yosemite. By creating this lighthearted film, Karow has simultaneously—and inadvertently, I think—continued to live out the laissez faire standard of big-wall free climbing that the first-free-ascent party was known for: living on alpine walls, not merely A few days ago 32-year-old Mari Salvesen of Norway flashed the notorious Belly Full of Bad Berries in Indian Creek, USA, becoming only the second person to do so after Pete Whittaker in 2011. 13) in Indian Creek, Utah. Aug 1, 2023 · His battle with a 5. Experience a typical day with two of the country’s most prolific trad climbers in this beauty of a film by Nathaniel Davison. Many aspiring wide-crack climbers block themselves Trango Big Bros are must have pieces for wide and offwidth crack climbing. Plus, shoulders are the most sophisticated Sep 29, 2024 · The Wide Boy powered through 200 feet of hand-fist stacks on the underbelly of a German bridge, creating the world’s hardest offwidth. 12b offwidths were established here in the early 80s, and in 1988 Jay Anderson made the first ascent of Lucille which was the first 5. 13 offwidth ever climbed. 0: Tom Randall successfully completed his daring offwidth project in Berlin. Sep 12, 2019 · Climbing, crack climbing, offwidth climbing, pete takeda, trad climbing, wideboys lhaas Jan 22, 2020 · Organized by width of crack (finger, hand and fist, offwidth, and chimney), Crack Climbing covers everything from basics like the hand jam through advanced techniques including the sidewinder and trout tickler. 7 (rated to 8kN; protects from 5. May 2, 2019 · The late American offwidth master Craig Luebben wrote a superb article called "Offwidthing, The Big, Bad and Burly" in which he said… "An offwidth requires more effort per inch of stone than any other type of climbing" Jun 16, 2020 · The Black Diamond C4 No. 13-) in Moab, Utah. Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. Additionally, if you’re a budding offwidth climber yourself, I hope these tips will help speed you along your wondrous and wide climbing journey! Feb 18, 2021 · We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. And then there’s offwidth climbing, which involves cracks too large for a fist and too small to accommodate the entire body. (Speed off-width climbing? I guess I could come around to that. Cette courte vidéo tournée à Indian Creek, présente les différentes techniques à essayer lorsqu’un blocage de main n’est plus possible. Equipped with a climbing harness, magnesium and a single 5-cam, he climbed the 60-meter-long offwidth crack on the underside of a massive bridge. “Offwidths keep getting put in front of me—it’s hard to say no. But climbing there takes planning—get those permits now! Offwidth cracks are too narrow to fit your whole body in and too wide to use standard crack climbing techniques. Jun 12, 2025 · Where is your happy place? FrictionLabs Pro Pamela Shanti Pack and Athlete Devin Fin found theirs in the heart of the American desert, establishing first ascents amongst the towering sandstone cliffs of Indian Creek, Utah—part of Bears Ears National Monument. The classic crack shoe is the 5. . 10d). Nov 26, 2019 · Renowned crack climber Pete Whittaker regularly teaches climbing courses and presents at climbing events around the world, from festivals such as the Kendal Mountain Film Festival, The Telegraph London Outdoor Show, and Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival, to local climbing clubs, gyms, and walls. Perform the same exercises you did for offwidth training after the 13 weeks is over, but follow the intensity guidelines outlined below. Also, try dynamic stretching while hiking, so go down deep into lunges as you move up. Jul 30, 2025 · One hundred feet above the ground, I found myself stuck headfirst in Flavor Blasted (5. Jun 16, 2016 · Most forms of rock climbing are a lot like dancing — almost balletic in the delicate, precise, graceful moves involved. Jun 3, 2020 · Black Diamond’s impossibly engineered 21-inch Camalot sure was a good April Fool’s joke, but climbers actually use similar-looking pieces of gear for off-widths. Join the group then check our posts to find the coupon code. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing Developed by Tony Yaniro and myself, and dubbed Leavittation, this method combines many different existing climbing techniques. It is these features that have lifted Vedauwoo's status in the climbing world. You not only have to thrutch and grovel your body up a wide crack, but also have to haul and plug heavy gear that’s awkward to carry, challenging to place, and a pain in the butt to climb past. Ideas for core sessions include Pilates, CoreAlign, and core group fitness classes. May 29, 2013 · During the climbing season, it’s beneficial to follow a training program that keeps you at a high level of strength without burning you out mentally or making you overly fatigued. 12+) at Vedauwoo, Wyoming, making the first female ascent and likely fifth or sixth overall ascent of the legendary offwidth and squeeze chimney. The ominously named Belly Full of Bad Berries is a 24-meter overhanging offwidth climbing route in Monticello, Utah. May 28, 2013 · Focus on the spine, hips, and shoulders, which are hugely stressed in offwidth climbing. In Phases 1 and 2, aim for 30-minute plyo sessions, then work up to an hour in Phases 3 and 4. 11+ offwidth on his way down from the summit was a standout moment for me. Professional Climber. Jun 12, 2023 · Offwidth: Offwidth climbing involves squeezing or jamming into a crack that is too wide for fist jams, but too narrow for a full-body squeeze. Oct 16, 2012 · Hold static positions on the machine for 30 seconds, rest, and repeat. Finger cracks: These are cracks typically between the sizes of . Practice your foot jams—hanging from your feet helps with offwidth practice and gives a great core workout. 13c/d). It’s like that pack of boys in junior […] Jul 11, 2025 · Craig’s climbs were long, so this would add up to over 2,000 feet of vertical offwidth climbing. Do shoulder circles forward and backward. Jul 23, 2020 · “I have a quota of one offwidth a year, but I’ve gone overtime this year somehow,” says Mason Earle while racking up at the base of the unclimbed wide crack. I decided to climb only offwidths in Red Rock, Vedauwoo, Wyoming, and Indian Creek, Utah, until I could easily send Chrysler Crack. Sep 5, 2023 · Where is your happy place? FrictionLabs Pro Pamela Shanti Pack and Athlete Devin Fin found theirs in the heart of the American desert, establishing first ascents amongst the towering sandstone cliffs of Indian Creek, Utah—part of Bears Ears National Monument. Like all Camalots from No. You come out at the top dirty, sweating, scraped up all over and absolutely exhausted. To initiate, first jab a heel onto a likely hold, ideally one of at least heel width. Sep 10, 2021 · I want to set the record straight and give some concrete tips that can change the way folks see offwidth climbing. Jun 18, 2018 · Pete Takeda discovers that the Suzanne Somers ThighMaster, when combined with beer drinking, is an essential training tool for offwidth climbing. Here are stretches to complement the program. It’s an amazing climb, Eden says, involving a wide range of techniques from fingers to wide offwidth and everything in between. ) Who won? Who lost? How do the Big Bros compare with cams? What about passive gear? All is revealed Jul 12, 2024 · The White Rim in Canyonlands has some of the world's best and hardest roof cracks. ” (Adapted from John Long, 2003, How to Rock Climb. Choose at least two to three core workouts per week throughout each cycle. Climbers Dec 14, 2011 · 'Offwidth crack': a phrase to strike fear into the heart of most climbers. The crack trainer is great, but we wanted to make sure we were Mar 16, 2025 · Offwidth climbing is a type of rock climbing that involves wide cracks that are too narrow for a climber's entire body to fit into, but too wide for traditional hand and foot placements. 7 Camalot. ). Brad Jackson, a prominent Vedauwoo, Wyoming, offwidth climber, says, “All athletic movement starts at the hips and core; strong hips equal a strong athlete. 12) and goes into a steep offwidth in a corner, before leading into a “deceptively strenuous and miserable grovel” on pitch two, with arm-bars and chicken-wings. Climbing offwidth cracks is characterized by the careful, and often brutal, wedging of limbs into a crack in a rock face, allowing the climber enough stability to gradually work their way upward. ' Nov 25, 2009 · 11/25/09 - The indefatigable Pamela Pack has redpointed a 65-foot, overhanging offwidth and squeeze chimney in Zion National Park that she rated solid 5. Easy to spot, the Offwidth boulder offers an array of warm-ups, strenuous slabs, and of course a devouring offwidth. “We realized it wasn’t a chicken-wingable in the normal sense, and it was a roof. I was about to get schooled. 97 inches) and the No. 10a after Yosemite legend Jim Bridwell Apr 15, 2013 · In Climbing's May issue, we ran Part 1 of an offwidth training program devised by Pamela Pack. Jan 11, 2025 · What is an Offwidth? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet says: Before a crack climbing trip, I usually focus my training on one-arm lock-offs and back muscle [exercises] for laybacks. It makes me dream of an offwidth climbing problem in the olympics. Apr 11, 2022 · Whether you’re already an offwidth fan or are ready to face your fear, check out our list of eight favorite wide climbs. usdd koum ehxv jrhtcnpa jib hpml azzqdge fuhh dzk ktknm